Inauguration: Safraniere Stephanie Sable (Productrice de SAFRAN Francais)

Nous avons visite pour vous une safraniere située à 40 minutes au sud de LYON (Isere, France).

Mais d’abord petit historique du safran.

Le Safran, Crocus Sativus, est connu et cultive comme épice depuis la plus haute antiquité. Il fut sans doute rapporté par les Croisés qui avaient découvert son parfum puissant en Asie-Mineure. Il était alors de production courante en Perse, au Cachemire et en Macédoine.

Simultanément, les Arabes avaient introduit le Safran en Espagne où il était cultivé dans les provinces de Valence et d’Alicante.

Au fil des courants commerciaux avec l’Europe du Nord, les premiers bulbes de Safran furent rapportés en France.

Safran, ce mot fait tout de suite penser à des couleurs, des parfums et des trésors de l’orient. Autrement dit, c’est beau, c’est bon et çà coûte cher, il est surnommé l’or rouge. On doit donc se trouver face à un produit de luxe!

Le mot est sans doute exagéré dans la mesure ou “luxe” évoque le tape à l’oeil et l’inutile car il n’en n’est rien en ce qui concerne le safran.

Le safran est tout simplement une très belle fleur (crocus sativus), une épice délicate très appréciée dotée de propriétés médicinales fort intéressantes.Le safran est tout simplement une très belle fleur (crocus sativus),

Seul le Crocus Sativus donne le safran

Le Safran est un crocus sativus linnaeus appartenant à la famille des iridacées. C’est une plante cultivée que l’on confond souvent avec la colchique.

L’appellation safran vient de l’arabo-persan “za’faran”, les Arabes ayant longtemps dominé le commerce des épices quoi de plus normal.

C’est un bulbe enterré à quelques quinze centimètres  de profondeur qui se multiplie chaque année en produisant de nouveaux bulbes.

Le crocus sativus possède une végétation inversée c’est-à-dire que les feuilles de safran sortent de terre en septembre et la plante fleurit en octobre puis dessèche en mai de l’année suivante.

La fleur de safran comporte 6 pétales violets, trois étamines jaune d’or et un pistil rouge. C’est ce fameux pistil composé de trois stigmates (filaments) qui, une fois séché, donne l’épice safran.

Apres cette intéressante introduction revenons a notre safraniere qui se trouve a Anjou dans l’Isere.

L’exploitante Stephanie Sable a planté 25.000 bulbes sur 1100 m2 cette année et espere recolter entre 120g et 180g ! Pas de culture intensive à la recherche de rendements extrêmes comparées à celles des céréales ou de la vigne, d’où ces petites surface de travail.

Tout se pratique sans outils mécanisés, les seuls outils utiles sont la pioche, la pelle, le râteau,  beaucoup d’huile de coude! et une grosse pincée de patience et de persévérance.

L’année prochaine sur la même surface,  elle récoltera environ 540g puis en année 3, elle approchera du kilo.

La demande chaque année devra se faire en tenant compte de ces données.

En ce moment, les premières fleurs arrivent en ce mois d’octobre et elle espère vraiment que la récolte sera à la hauteur de ses espérances.

TERRAIN: 1er labour  avec l’âne,  dans un total respect de l’environnement, culture basée sur les fondamentaux:  sans produits chimiques ou pesticides, pas d’arrosage, désherbage continuel et annuel à la main,

RECOLTE: cueillette des fleurs puis en suivant, épluchage des stigmates (filaments de safran, partie rouge à l’intérieur de la fleur), séchage très précis et enfin conditionnement du “SAFRAN pur” dans un flacon en verre, scellé et millésimé comme un grand vin de manière à authentifié l’année de récolte.

PRODUITS: à partir de ce safran, certains produits dérivés sont produits.

Le safran étant un exhausteur de goût, il va très délicatement sublimer les plats travaillés, et agira de même sur des fruits ou légumes, d’où la confection de Marmelades ou Confits sucrés et parfois salés safranés.

Ces confits artisanaux sont cuits au chaudron en cuivre, les matières premières comme les fruits et légumes sont des environs car elle “baigne “dans une région riche en vergers très divers, pour exemple, elle a un champ de kiwi à 100 mètres de l’exploitation.

Voici donc quelques assortiments Tous Safranés cela va de soit, qu’elle propose, destinés à déglacer ou lier des sauces, accompagner une viande ou poisson, servir de base pour des desserts, ou chutneys, ou tout simplement sur une tartine grillée au petit déjeuné.

-courgettes /gingembre

-poire /rose, violette

-betterave aigre doux

-ananas/rhum

-figues / romarin

-kiwi /jasmin

-carottes / estragon

-échalotes piment d’Espelette AOC

-framboise (à la saison)

-abricot avec l’amande du fruit ( à la saison)

-poire fenouil cardamome …….. et bien d’autres

Des “vinaigres safranés de vin rouge maison” devraient bientôt voir le jour ainsi que des sirops à utiliser pour aromatiser des apéritifs ou napper certains desserts.

Voila vous en savez un peu plus sur le safran et n’hesitez pas a contacter Stephanie pour de plus amples renseignements.

Ci-dessous un reportage FR3 Grenoble sur son exploitation.

http://alpes.france3.fr/info/anjou-38–stephanie-la-safraniere-70980916.html

Stephanie Sable

safran.extravagant@gmail.com

06.63.06.04.61

Newsletter November 2011

Majorca / Hurlingham via Marseille , only good things may take place.

At around 8am , the sun is very much appearing as a big bright orange (high up it is scorching although we are soon to be flirting with the winter frosts), sending us all his best kisses , warm and comforting , like bouncing off the surface of mother earth as if by amusement , making his stand up also known as rise , this elegantly , allowing us seeing through the aurora so to ripen the fields of olives , almonds and much more , giving us another wonderful day this time to return to our not so monotonous but different , filled with working days and e-mails of justification , approvals …etc normal life in other terms…

I feel having been away for so long ,as if my travel had included a period through time , I now return to the much larger city of Palma going through the traffic that always leads us to it , as if dragged , sucked in.

I enjoy very much what is then being felt , having loved now and then sipping a fruit cocktail through a straw and being kept apart from much of all reality , but that at time , also is reality.

Sobressada de Majorca made from black pig is “something” to spread on a chunky slice of deliciously toasted bread (wood fired if you still have your BBQ at hand) as this onctuous and rich , red of paprika and spices “paste” is pushed into this not so elegant , rather rustic “tube” (Or its many variant such as Longaniza , Rizada to name a few) made from the pork intestine is delicious either spread onto bread or even slowly melted before adding a rice into the cooking pot , instantly coloring and perfuming the dish in ways real food lovers only may understand , feel and even sometimes smell although my wordings are simple and only describing the reason my mouth is now running its juices made of an excitement I only get from memory , desire but also experience and expectation.

There are a few other items one may squeeze amongst his luggage when travelling so to remind himself the pleasure only recently felt and discovered such as the Crema de Almendra , found to be used (as per recommendations) dissolved into warm milk during the long and cold nights of our winter or used into cakes and various patisseries.

Dulce de Leche or “Milk Jam” beside being local and “tradicional” , has this toffee consistency with the beating powers of “elbow pushing” Nutellas and other lookalike off the markets shelves.

Closer to “our” Mediterranean shores , in the Marseille region , has seen the appearance of what I would describe as subtile creation not only by its ingredients but its presentation being so adequate , so “branche d’Olivier”

L’esperantine de Marseille (avec l’accent s’il vous plait) was created in 1999 for the 2600 years of the city of Marseille and obtained immediately high recognition amongst the great chocolate “haut de gamme. I must say myself I am loving its down to earth concept  (almond,mint,orange and extra virgin olive oil) but equaling its place amongst my favourite in terms of love , design, taste and originality thus , beside the like of the Lenotre Bubble Chocolate or even its  “L7g” cube of 7gr of pure chocolate bliss as previously reported.

As the ACF Annual Black Tie Event is just around the corner (Friday 21^st October 2011), its purpose in promoting our industry is being constantly worked on , wishing not only its success but also perpetration , a “happy cooking” motto always is in order as has proved its latest competition , having brought together a few professionals of various levels , all brushing shoulder with one another.

Annual Black Tie Dinner

For members booking : please do log into your member profile and place your reservation in our events page

Public reservation and purchase of the event , please do follow the link:

http://extranet.associationculinairefrancaise.co.uk/index.php?metier=internet

 

 

Prior to Sunrise

It was pitch black when I woke up this morning fully determined to make it to Billingsgate London Fish market.

70 minutes later , having avoided the traffic and the morning rush of the city , I may report my rapid trip in the early hours driving through the streets of London so to feel the buzz of the first day of the week at Billingsgate market , attracting restaurateurs and other fish and shellfish aficionados.

Razor Clams and 20 Pounds Halibuts laying there awaiting for ownership , for the pair of agile hands to slice through its delicate flesh.

Then , poaching , frying or steaming its “steaks” just right so to fully enjoy its savour and light and delicate “meat”.

I love walking through the alleys perfumed with marine salt and iodine , hearing the rush of the early morning , the cry of the seagulls around an above the market although surrounded by the city blocks , the deals being made rapidly all in respect and appearing as a ballet of fork lifts carrying large boxes of the latest catch , the eye of the blue crab like a glance , a stare , an “adieu”, all beautiful and mouthwatering as recipes and ways of serving it are on the motorway of anticipation and as they are being created in our thoughtful mind while we walk along the suppliers , all keen to get on the most rapidly as possible as the day is in full run and is lasting only 3 and a half hours each and every of the 5 days it is opened during the week.

A cup of tea and perhaps a bowl of jellied eel accompanied with brown toast is now in order while typing these words so to spread this experience I always endeavor feeling when I step in this “gigantic machine” so to provide the most accurate of its story and purpose as after all Billingsgate market is deserving more than 25 000 tonnes of Fish and Fish products to the London market every single years counting in average £200 millions of revenues.

On the first floor of Billingsgate fish market may be found along with the traders and controller offices  a charity school that is offering seafood and fish courses to all school children in order to promote and educate on seafood and fish eating and its health benefits  but also offering classes to students preparing for NVQ’s as per fishmongers preparation techniques are being taught and demonstrated for the purpose.

It is thought that perhaps King “Belin” in and around 400BC could have been at the origin of the present day’s name “Billingsgate”.

The market being close to the Thames where Dutch boats were moored so for to provide with Eels as in 1699 , a decret was then granted to them , having fed and therefore helped the London population during the great fire as a sign of recognition still existing to this day to have the monopole on all Eels product and therefore none to be found on the market stalls.

Wishing you will perhaps visit and recognize the amusement and entertainement I may find myself , when heading for a professional center of distribution like such as always , always I have taken great pleasure in re-discovering  its about and long standing and solidly well respected place.

From the north to the southern hemisphere

September being the month for food festivals all over the Uk , whether it will be  “Feast of Dorset” , the repetitively famous “Taste Cumbria Food Festival” or the Brogdale Farms Cider Festival, I invite you to browse online via the numerous website available calendars of events on the subject.

Here are a few links for your interest:

http://www.countryfile.com/news/food-festivals-calendar-2011

http://www.cardiff-festival.com/

http://www.nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk/

http://www.foodloversbritain.com/FoodMatters/This-Month/UK-Food-Events/

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/may/20/food-festivals-august-to-september

and for those adept of the Taste of London , still travelling to some cities around Europe and willing to attend its equivalent in Milan , Amsterdam or Dublin please refer to the below so familiar link …

http://www.tastefestivals.com/london/

The summer season peak is looking towards the end with regards to summer fruits coming from the continent (if not already as looking now through my lounge wide window showing the interminable flow of rain falling on us on this day) as peaches,  nectarins and melon are showing their best fully mature and ripe flavours as if dressed for an occasion so to excuse themselves until next time.

Although Pears are now juicy and gorged with the sweetness of  a honey pot , apples falling from the tree announcing their readiness , demanding one thing that a little of short crust pastry to be placed under and over them as a blanket , a duvet telling us to start covering ourselves , reminder of the colder days to come.

Don’t we simply love the turn of the seasons , the changes in our eating  and taste as tomatoes and fennels will slowly leave place to cabbages and roots , parsnips and celeriac , game birds  and stews , I read you already looking for to finish your sauce with a drop of chocolate or cranberry jelly so to accompany the venison loin  gently roasting in the foam of the light butter , a crispy sliced beetroot placed delicately atop as per ornament with alongside freshly sautéed Spaetzle  .

Lets open our minds on the goodness simple dishes as such are to bring upon us , the sheer joy shared with our family usually expressed by Mmmmmm’s and Yuuuum’s.

As per one of our previous update , our still very new and what I may announce to be of a certain success, our Facebook page was created for the purpose and is to be used as a professional platform  , we are therefore welcoming any of you to bring along your knowledge , sharing with us all your deepest secret place or favorite food fair tucked into your area perhaps , or any original product you may have stumbled upon  that could wows us all or a new magazine that could be of any interest allowing us discovery  ….and so on

Until next time , I wish you happy cooking !

Escoffier Challenge 2011

I have the not so “deplaisant” task of introducing you to our next competition “The Escoffier Challenge 2011″ . This competition has seen the day and was and still is organised so for to promote the industry , our industry , offering to professionals and students a chance of striving and challenging themselves , gaining very useful tools , equipping one with serious knowledge , organisation and confidence , very often neglected beside the winning prizes.

Of course a beautiful trophy , diploma along with a seriously merited added experience to one Curriculum is not to be neglected . Nevertheless , let the cooking do the talking.

I may only wish the very best of luck to all participants.

This Month

We are to be of course celebrating the arrival of the Association’s new president. With the renewal of its stronghold leading the team and bringing new ideas we may only see tomorrow as a better place. He is in fact lifting his glass so to offer a toast as well as himself , so to receive to your well deserved support and words of encouragement.

These are happy days , willing to constantly improve , share and strive for the Association Culinaire Francaise not only to keep its well and respectable established position in the United Kingdom but also its existence and contribution to the industry that has well proved the importance of its genuine and forward thinking attribute , having permitted youngsters of the trade brushing shoulder with the more experienced , thus allowing for the respect of the well needed classical training topped and reworked by the fabulous dynamic so for trends and fashion our industry is being subject to while being caressed by its regular wave of renewing ideas and innovations so regularly and so for new beginnings springing and to be witnessed so often , we have therefore put into place a newsletter that we will now be able to forward to our members in a more efficient and thoughtful manner with the hopes that the future of the Association Culinaire Francaise , having never as much belonged to its faithful members than before , will keep on seeing development throughout the year via the billet of the various events , competitions and other shared joyful times that maybe enjoyed , felt and created via its platform.

As ever prior , the ACF is looking for to the contribution and alliance of its members to strengthen its core , as much as these wording may appear to be strong they are being the soul and supportive structure of any successful happy and respectable enterprise. Without these , walls have been found crumbling under the lightest breeze or melting away under the soft but eroding drop ….We are all growing to become better , at what we do , our job , towards others , and this may be well demonstrated in many various ways. For this , the Association Culinaire Francaise has put in place earlier on this year , not only a new text so to explain the philosophy behind the new page on our website for the Secours Mutuels , but so to provide with an assistance and support in the case of need for our members sometimes forgotten and so to remind ourselves our great master respect of the workforce surrounding him , making a team what it is , walking into one another’s footsteps.

We wish of course to hear from you whether it is by word of support , the provision of funds for our colleagues in the need , added help and ideas so for your participation to be supplementing its weight of importance to your membership and making you an active and closest friend in this great family.

This Year

This year we may have seen a number of events taking place, amongst a few competitions creating platform so for catering students and professional to develop and demonstrate their craft skills

We have been spoiled by the enthusiasm with which we have been approached by the candidates who have shown great knowledge and execution on their task.

Here are a few reminders.

^26th March 2011 

The Association Culinaire Francaise annual AGM with the election of the new committee and the announcement of our President resignation.

27^th March 2011

On a happier note the 2^nd Edition of the annual Pastry Day  with its Chocolate challenge requiring the entrants to provide 4 plated dessert composed of 3 different structures was made to become a real success.

With our sponsors present so to demonstrate some of their products and supporters  here so to enjoy them during a degustation , brought  an atmosphere and outcome beyond our best of thoughts that has allowed us to believe so much still may be possible in the near or far future.

Benoit Blin along with Yvon Coignard, Joannes Bonin , Javier Mercado and Sebastien Bruno where amongst the judges having the delight but nevertheless serious as very difficult task in proceeding with the selection of the winner dishes we have seen on the day.

Who would not want sampling chocolate dessert executed before your “emerveilled’ eyes , having discovered perhaps a newcomer within the industry bringing along his or her new ideas and search for perfection? Trust me when I say the sound of the spoon made by the judges when clinging the bottom of the plates , letting us hear and easily covering oumf and woaw that were now background noise as if considered leftovers

^08th April 2011

As we have lost not only a great member but also a good friend , there is never enough wording available so to replace anything felt on this occasion and the days after to come.

Fernand Jules Cesar Boulert has left us after a long lifetime participation and contribution not only to his country and the Association Culinaire Francaise but also to the Industry and its foundations

We are all , and will be missing him for a very longtime.

26^th April 2011

Benoit Blin , Head Pastry Chef at  Le Manoir au Quat’Saison , Presiding the Uk Pastry Team for the Coupe du Monde De La Patisserie in January 2013.

To do so the Uk team in need of serious and skilled professionals will have to qualify at the ‘Open des Desserts’ next year in March 2012.

Applicant may join the team by completing the downloadable form available on the Association Culinaire Francaise front webpage.

29^th May 2011

The Award for the Young Commis and Waiter of the Year were presented at the Blackburn College by the North West Branch President of  the Association Culinaire Francaise Peter Cooke and Sue Kenyon committee and branch Secretary.

28^th June 2011

Hosted by Tameside college ,  the North West branch of the Association Culinaire Francaise , has seen taking place its final  round of the 3^rd Edition of the challenge Escoffier

While we thank you for your support not only by continuously adhering with the idea the Association Culinaire Francaise is being always and in an intermittent re-shuffling , we look for to calmer times thus in the longer run so for a set up in its structure and balance to be commonly found , giving the healthy stability it deserve.

The forthcoming events and other matters of interest to our members , its committee and sponsors  along with perhaps food enthusiasts , will be announced and always forwarded to you in a way of information by the billet of this newsletter which we sincerely hope you will not only find instructive but also a great tool , allowing yourself keeping in good records not only with the ongoing within the Association but also in the hospitality business whether in the Uk or abroad.

Kindly yours